By Christine Swan
When my sleeper train arrived in Rome from Sicily, the morning was warm and sunny. I had given myself the majority of the day to visit sites that I had been unable to see on my outward journey, before catching a late afternoon train to Florence.
The queues for the Colosseum were just as long as during my previous visit so I decided to give it a miss and see what I could without queueing.
Queues! But not for me…….
The magnificent Arch of Constantine is available to see with no queue. Dating from AD 315, this magnificent 21m tall structure commemorates the Battle of Milvian Bridge under the Emperor’s reign. It features scenes from the battle and is the largest triumphal arch in Rome. Visitors can wander around it at their leisure and marvel.
The magnificent Arch of Constantine
Incredible level of detail of the Battle of Milvian Bridge
I then walked towards Palatine Hill to find ruins of the huge Palace of Domitian which was an Imperial residence from AD 81. It is impressive in both size and grandeur, and would have provided a commanding feature of the Rome skyline but also provided the residents with outstanding views across the City.
Part of the Palace of Domitian on Palatine Hill
Overview of the incredible Palace of Domitian showing the named sections of the structure. By Cassius Ahenobarbus – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=26386798
In front of the Palace is an impressive chariot racing circuit – the Circus Maximus. 150 000 spectators could be accommodated to watch thrilling and dangerous races. The Palace would have offered a grandstand view of the racing and other events. The Circus was also used for religious events, processions, and other events including live animal hunts of exotic species, for the entertainment of the crowds.
Modern chariot racing of sorts around the Circus Maximus
Part of the seating structure at the end of the circuit
The perspective from one end of the circuit to the other
I started my walk back towards Roma Termini station in the afternoon sunshine, ready to board the train to Florence to continue my journey. Rome is a feast for the senses. There is so much to see, absorb and understand, visitors need to take time to think and wonder at what they are experiencing. The richness and magnitude of what you are looking at is awe-inspiring. I will return to the eternal city but, on this occasion, it was time to leave.
Even a water fountain is a feature of wonder
The impressively beautiful nose of a Frecciarossa 1000 train at Roma Termini
I boarded a Frecciarossa train in preparation to be whisked along, at speeds of 190mph, to Florence. I was travelling from one Italian city famed for its history and architecture, to another. Sadly my stay would only be for one night but it would provide a taster of its delights.
Firenze Santa Maria Novella is a modern station with a shopping mall from which I emerged to seek my hotel. As in Venice, it had an understated entrance, so much so, I walked past it a couple of times before I saw the signage. However, I received a warm welcome and was directed to a very comfortable room which would be my temporary base while in Florence. I set off to find food and soon located a small restaurant with an interesting menu for a vegetarian. I ordered asparagus soup, a pasta dish for my main course and, tiramisu for dessert. As my soup arrived, a large party of English schoolchildren arrived. Their teachers organised seating and then proceeded to issue menus and translate for their pupils. Some pupils wanted spaghetti with meatballs, which was not on the menu. The teacher attempted to explain to the waiter that this was what the pupils wanted, so couldn’t they just make it please? The waiter called the chef over to the table and the explanation and request was repeated. Some of the children were complaining, loudly. They didn’t want anything else except spaghetti and meatballs. What kind of restaurant didn’t serve that? I do not profess to be fluent in Italian, but I do try. I had ordered my food in Italian and after watching the school party drama unfolding, I rolled my eyes and uttered: “Mamma mia”, conspiratorially to my waiter, trying to sound like a local even though I had been rumbled as being English fairly early on. He smiled, we laughed, I was happily Italian in that moment.
After I had rounded off my meal with a limoncello and a coffee, I went for a walk. It was already dark, but still quite pleasantly warm. I walked to the end off the street where the restaurant was, and turned the corner. Nothing, but nothing, prepares you for the beauty of the Duomo against the night sky. I think I stopped and took a deep breath. My entire trip had been filled with wonders, and this moment was another.
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore against the night sky
The colours, patterns and carving of the marble of the cathedral is stunningly beautiful
The impressive tower
The Baptistry of St John
I walked back to my hotel in a pleasant state of near shock. The Cathedral and other associated buildings are breathtaking in their beauty. The craftmanship and intricacy of their design is unlike anything else that I have seen. I had a warm shower in my bathroom with the colour-changing lights and oddly, a telephone by the toilet, and then slept soundly in the comfortable bed.
The following morning, after a very tasty breakfast, I continued with my sightseeing. The weather had changed and the sun had disappeared. It was now quite chilly and beginning to rain. I was drawn back to the Cathedral but it did appear quite different in the drizzly rain. As I had checked out of the hotel, I had my rucksack to carry.
The Duomo in drizzle
I walked on to the Piazza della Signoria. As in Rome, there is so much to see without queueing. The Loggia dei Lanzi hosts a gallery of statues
Loggia dei Lanzi outdoor sculpture gallery
Palazzo Vecchio in the rain, with queues
The rain had become more persistent and the sky growing dark. I managed to find a small restaurant with covered outdoor seating and ordered a pizza. I was grateful for the outdoor electric heaters and ate looking out over the Piazza della Signoria. There were still lots of tourists joining queues but I had a little more walking planned to do before I had to catch my next train.
Ponte Vecchio just a short walk away
On Ponte Vecchio, looking at the jewellery shops
Ponte Vecchio was only a short walk away so I paid for my meal and walked to the most famous bridge in Florence. I imagine that this is the closest experience to the original London Bridge, with a shops on either side and wide walkway in the middle, but sans the heads on spikes. There are lots of jewellery shops on Ponte Vecchio but I was looking, rather than buying.
I bought a few gifts including a small bottle of grappa and a calcio storico fiorentino shirt for my son. The shop assistant was happy to explain the significance and advised me that blue – representing Santa Croce, was indeed the best choice. As this is also my son’s favourite colour, the deal was done.
I walked to the station, happy with my purchases, ready to board my next train to Milan.
Awful Rigours and Wretched Pay 