2010 Vesevo, Fiano di Avellino, Campania, Italy (£13.99, Bennetts Fine Wines of Shipston-on-Stour, 01608-661409; Lockett Bros of North Berwick, 01620-890799; Villeneuve Wines of Edinburgh, 0131-558 8441; North & South Wines of Wandsworth, 020-7228 2431).

P.S. Don’t know where our Mr.Jukes got the ‘of Wandsworth’ part but a good review is still a review. Just plain ‘ole North and South Wines. Either way, Cheers chap. Very much appreciated.

Magic.

Vesuvius’s windblown ash makes the soils in the Irpanian Hills of Campania unique. This historic ingredient lends mystique and uniqueness to the fragrant and beguiling white varieties grown here. I am a massive fan of greco, falanghina and also the beautiful, blushing, demure fiano di avellino.

Vesevo is a relatively new set up – the wines are modern and they shimmer with energy and élan. There is no better quirky white grape than fiano to break the ice at a dinner party. It is unoaked, glamorously aromatic and yet searingly dry, so it should appeal to all palates.

The fabulous thing, though, is that very few people will have tasted it before. Once tasted, never forgotten, this variety is enchanting and Vesevo’s version is blessed with scintillating peach, nutmeg, quince and orange blossom on the nose, and then it all caves in on the palate like the most dramatic of black holes and it completely quenches the thirst even on the very hottest of days. A cunning food-matching proposition, too, this is one of the most adept ‘fish wines’ of all time.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year.

www.matthewjukes.com.